Afghanistan I saw in June/July 1977 (Part 4)

 

Next day I went to the bus station to get a bus for Lashkargah where I had heard of some big hydro project erected on Afghanistan’s biggest river Helmand but couldn’t find one. Water, lakes, canals and rivers have always fascinated me and I routinely cross rivers swimming while on trips while my partners would drive the bikes or cars across. I always enjoyed swimming across rivers except maybe once when I tried to swim across a  flooded Indus at Attock. After diving I felt some powerful undercurrents taking me down and the depth seemed unending. I experienced feeling of impending death and struggled hard with full strength and managed to come out alive. I was terribly scared but unable to share it with my traveling partner not wanting to appear weak or vulnerable. That was in early eighties with late Dr. Bilal.

 

Dejected I got into another MB bus and felt bad when the bus crossed river Helmand. After a few hours drive the bus stopped at a small river where many touristy vehicles were parked and many were swimming and playing in the river. It was Farah Rud the second biggest river of the region.

 

The weather was a bit overcast but hot and I was steaming in sweat in the bus and instantly decided that I was stopping here. There was a truck full of western tourists with seats on the sides of its bed in the back, I assume it must have been pretty uncomfortable. And then there were a couple of vans, one of them a hippie favorite VW. These were also hippie type and very welcoming. The group had assembled in Brussels and was heading towards Katmandu with a long stop at Kabul and then Pakistan. Instantly I jumped in the river and loved the cool water and the small growth on the side. The river was between 2-4 feet deep with water flowing slowly and gradually. With a slight breeze it got even prettier. Suddenly there was a scream and a girl close to me slipped and panicked. Capitalizing on the opportunity (I had saved a swimmer in Hassanabdal too who is now a famous neurologist in Canada) I jumped and picked her up. She was a very pretty girl in her mid twenties wearing a bikini with a fully developed figure. For the 6’2” (140lbs) 18 years old bringing her out was very big experience with lots of butterflies in the belly and many other places. Having a woman this close with her hands around my neck would stay with me for ever. She was an American and I still remember her name and the fragrance of the deodorant she was wearing that day. Much later in life after having lived in US I realized that probably this drama was done intentionally as I had noticed her extraordinary interest in me too obviously. Whatever it might have been, I loved it.

 

After an hour of swimming and a nice hero’s lunch I got on the next bus that was going to Herat. The group repeatedly offered me to join them for a few days and stay with them till Kabul but I had my own plans. I still wonder if it was the right choice.

 

Another few hours bus ride in the near identical landscape and we were in Herat. It certainly looked different with slightly more sophisticated look of the people, women driving, increased oriental features and near complete dominance of Dari, the Afghani dialect of Farsi. Historically Herat was one of major cities of Khorasan, a land divided between many countries but mostly Iran. Herat used to be a centre for learning and excellence but it was Nadir Shah’s general and protégé Ahmad Shah Abdali who forced this part of Khorasan in Afghanistan and the world accepted. Frankly it didn’t appear to be part of Afghanistan to me.

 

Herat was a quiet sleepy little town. I settled down on getting a hotel and went to see the famous places. This hotel was also full of western tourists and in the evening had great discussions and I accumulated information about Iran which was a modern pro-western country ruled by the Shah of Iran. An Irani trekker on his way to Katmandu discussing the Shah commented that in Iran if you even dream against the Shah next day you will be jailed and tortured. He considered the thought of the Shah getting deposed within his lifetime preposterous and unrealistic. I got great information about the Caspian Sea area and its unending resorts. I visited them many times since then and still find the Caspian area pretty and most exciting.

 

The city had as usual a few parks, old ruins and then many tombs. The booklet talked about a naugazza kabbar i.e. a 9 yards long grave of some super Pir, it is much after death that ordinary people acquire extraordinary features. It was always like this and would stay until we educate everyone. The first time since entering Afghanistan I had a vegetarian meal in Herat.

 

Early morning I joined a group of tourists staying in my hotel to get a bus going to Mashhad via Islam Qilla.

 

My travels to Iran are a totally different topic and I would not include them over here and end my travelogue.

Shall be concluding in the next and last episode.